When I initially stopped into Amabel Provisions, Elmwood Village’s new cheese shop, I was not expecting to walk out with a gourmet deli sandwich. But that’s exactly what happened. Upon viewing the two menu boards – one for cheeses, the other for sandwiches – I immediately knew that I would be ordering the Tempesta Mortadella (stracchino, pistachio, pesto, arugula, and evoo, on a kaiser roll). I must say that I am spoiled because my wife, a former chef, makes these types of sandwiches at home, but I had never seen one in a local deli or cheese shop… at least not the way that this sandwich was put together.
After placing my order with Brooke Pierce, a childhood friend of Julian Dell’Oso, who owns the cheese shop with his husband Clayton Edison, I began to poke around. I noticed that the shelves were quaintly stocked with a number of gourmet market items such as olive oils, salted Meadow Butter, pâté, terrine, sardines, pistachio milk, gourmet popcorns, honey, jellies, nuts, teas, chocolate bars, gourmet gummies, crackers, and packaged smoked meats.
As I awaited my sandwich to be prepared, and a number of other customers to be served, I interjected with a few questions.
It is interesting to note that, according to Julian, the City has had a moratorium on food store licenses. – hence the reason that Amabel Provisions added sandwiches to the menu line-up. Since they had already signed a lease, they had to get creative. And let’s give a hand to someone at the City who suggested it. It’s a good thing too, because half of the orders are sandwiches. Talk about turning lemons into lemonade.
Julian told me that they started the cheese shop for a number of reasons, including the fact that he had once been in the wine business, working with small producers who cared about what goes into the product. And as we all know, what goes best with wine, traditionally? Cheese, of course! Aligning with their love for wine, Julian and Clayton began connecting with small US farmers who were making great cheeses. It’s why the shop is starting off with an all American line-up of cheeses.
It’s an incredible coincidence that, prior to opening, Buffalo hosted the American Cheese Society Annual Conference. What are the odds? By attending the conference, the Amabel Provisions team was able to sample endless amounts of cheese, which helped them to curate an impeccable “cheese board,” as you can see below:
As we chatted, Julian mentioned that the opening of the cheese shop was partially due to the dearth of cheese shops in the city. Not since Jill Gedra’s Nickel City Cheese & Mercantile has another shop of this nature entered the scene. Plus, secret or not, it is said that Wegman’s and the Co-op are lacking in their cheese departments, which has left an opening for a business along the likes of Amabel Provisions to flourish.
Finally, it was a trip to the Catskills and Hudson Valley that sealed the deal for the owners of Amabel Provisions, who came away realizing that Buffalo needed more. A lot more. And that’s what they have set out to do here. They are bringing gourmet products to Elmwood Avenue that would not otherwise be available.
Brooke and Julia imparted to me that they had no idea that there were so many cheeseheads in Buffalo. They said that they have been astounded since opening the shop’s doors last Thursday, how many people know all about great cheeses. Obviously that is a telltale sign that there is going to be some smooth sailing ahead.
There is one thing that I would like to see at Amabel Provisions. A tiny table or two, or counter seating along the window. I was so excited to eat my sandwich as it was handed to me. I ended up eating it in the car, which was a happy moment, but not at all atmospherically enjoyable. On non-rainy days, there is patio seating.
After finishing my sandwich, I called Delaware District councilman Joel Feroleto, to congratulate him on having such a wonderful new business open in his district. He was equally excited, saying “I’m super happy to have more options for cheese-lovers in the city. As someone who really enjoys making charcuterie boards for friends and family, I’m thrilled to have more options when it comes to fine cheeses.”
If you were wondering about the name of the shop, “Amabel means lovable,” Julian told me. “We like that message, but it’s also the name of our recently passed dog (Mabel) which is where it came from.”
Amabel Provisions | 1006 Elmwood Ave Buffalo, New York 14222 | (716) 277-6823 hello@amabelprovisions.com | Instagram
The post Amabel Provisions: “Say cheese, please!” appeared first on Buffalo Rising.